Katahdin Slips on a Winter Coat

The abundance of clear but cool weather this fall has provided a lot of fall hiking opportunities.  We remind our fall hikers that they are entering a true wilderness.  November hikers have a very good chance of not seeing other hiking parties during their day hike.  Fall hikers especially, should be prepared for winter weather and hiking conditions, responsible for their own safety and ready to self rescue.  With the limited daylight hours and cold nights, setting a firm turn-around time and sticking to it is an especially important step in safe and responsible Katahdin hiking during the shoulder season.
Our winter camping and hiking season at the Park begins on December 1.  With the more certain expectation of full winter conditions, hikers traveling above treeline after 12/1 are required to register their climb with Park HQ seven days in advance. 
Baxter Park Ranger Mike Winslow patrolled Katahdin trails on Wednesday, November 28.  He reported 1-2" of snow on the trails and up to a foot in drifts.  I've included some photos Mike captured on his hike.

Caution recommended for Katahdin hikers

The transition from summer to winter can be a hazardous time in the alpine zones of Katahdin.  The weather can change quickly and with ferocity from quiet calm fall air to winter conditions with snow, sleet, freezing rain and high winds.  In 1963, Katahdin hiker Irene Ivusic and Park Ranger Ralph Heath lost their lives on Katahdin in an unpredicted and severe snowstorm on October 29.

During this time of year, we recommend all hikers be prepared for winter conditions, determine and stick to a turn-around time and be prepared for self-rescue as response times for Ranger rescue may be 12 hours or more.

All Park Trails Now Open. Hikers climbing above treeline are advised to be prepared for winter conditions including snow, ice and below freezing temps. Rescue or assistance may be more that 24 hours.

During the transition time between summer and fall, hiking in the Park can be both beautiful and risky.  Hikers should be fully equipped for winter conditions as weather is very changeable and higher elevation areas in the Park can quickly change from sunny and comfortable to sleet, snow, freezing rain and high winds.  Hikers should be prepared for winter conditions and as always, hikers should set a turn around time at the trail head, and remember that the true destination for any hike is a safe return to the campsite or car in the parking lot. The Park is primarily a wilderness and hikers should be properly equipped for a wilderness environmenr and be prepared to self-rescue in the case of incidents or mishaps. 
A cell phone is a great piece of emergency equipment, but in most of the Park terrain, there is no tower coverage and cell phones will not work.  If your cell phone is turned on while in the Park, it will use its power reserves searching in vain for a tower and when you really need it, it will be drained of power and dead.  Our best recommendation is to turn your cell phone off in the wilderness of the Park and stow it safely in your pack so that it is charged and available in the case of an emergency above treeline when you really need it.  There is no guarantee that your cell phone will find a tower, even above treeline, but if it does and you need our help, a cell phone can save hours by telling us where you are and what you need.

Cathedral, Dudley and Knife Edge Trails remain closed due to ice. Katahdin hikers should be prepared for ice and snow conditions above treeline.

Winter conditions close Katahdin Trails

Recent snow events, capped with a snow event on the morning of Sunday, October 14, led us to close all Katahdin Trails except Chimney Pond.
Trail closures are driven first by our primary mandate of Resource Protection and secondarily by concerns for public safety.

Below freezing night-time temperatures began to freeze the upper layers of alpine soils last week.  Heavy snow on top of this frozen soil begins to thaw the soil and leaves the soil and any associated plant life at greater risk of damage from the treading of hikers boots.  Wet trail conditions on these trails motivate hikers to step off the trail onto adjacent vegetation to avoid the wet areas.  In alpine zones, this action, when the plants and soils are most vulnerable, can lead to plant mortality and widened trails.  This is the primary concern in closing Katahdin trails.  It's also the primary concern in the decision to open Katahdin trails in the springtime.

Our second concern is the realization that many, and perhaps most, of our hiking visitors do not realize just how wintry the conditions can become above treeline on Katahdin in October.  From footwear, to clothing, to hiking technique, they are unprepared.  When conditions on Katahdin become sharply more wintry than conditions at the trailhead we begin to consider public safety issues.  As you can see from the photos, this is not suitable terrain for hiking in wool socks and sandals.
We will continue to advise hikers that that they are responsible for their own safety and survival, and we will continue to provide information  regarding likely conditions and what hikers should consider regarding appropriate footwear, clothing, emergency gear, turn-around times and good decision making. 
Warmer weather should allow us to re-open Katahdin Trails by Tuesday, October 16.  Good judgment and preparation, always a necessity in climbing Maine's highest mountain, will be even more important as winter starts making visits in October.

When Old Man Winter Flexes his muscles - Katahdin hikers need to prepare!

Thoreau Spring Plaque

Thoreau Spring Plaque

The Helpful Hiker

The Helpful Hiker.

Bears. They are a part of our wilderness

Bears.  They are a part of our wilderness

On June 24, we conducted a rescue operation in the Park.

Park management is often a careful balancing act between the often opposing pulls of human design and natural environments. 

BSP Staff - 2012

This is a photo of the Baxter State Park staff taken at our annual spring meeting on June 5, 2012.  This photo includes most, but not all, of the year round and seasonal staff.  Some staff were out sick or otherwise unable to join the photo op, and some of the seasonal staff have yet to come on board for the summer.  In all, we about 61 employees and more than a dozen interns.  This does not include a number of contractors that help us to get the work done in a variety of ways.  Typically, when I show people this photo, they are surprised at how many people are involved in protecting the Park's resources, providing recreational opportunities and maintaining Park property and public safety.
The photo is a rare and hard to get glimpse at the people behind the Park.  It's hard to get because we only meet as a group twice each year.  While it is helpful to bring everyone together to train and trade information as a group, if everyone is at Park Headquarters in Millinocket, then no one is in the Park.  Because our work takes place mostly in the Park, we can only meet rarely as a group, and when we do, it should be in June - before the Park becomes very busy as it will in July, August and September.
Our all-staff meeting on the 5th included a dense schedule centered mostly around safety.  We reviewed numerous changes to our Standard Operating Procedures Manual, the policy and procedures manual that acts as a guide for Park employees.  We also reviewed new initiatives such as a bucket with salt solution to help Park fishermen ensure their equipment isn't carrying invasive an/or exotic diseases into Park waters.  We spent most of the day going over various safety procedures and protocols such as the use of personal protective equipment, reading and understanding Material Safety Data Sheets, protection protocols for blood borne pathogens, ergonomics in the workplace, and a review of the Job Hazard Analysis process.
It was a long day for Park Rangers more comfortable with active work in the campgrounds and on the trail, but if the training prevents a single serious injury, it was worth every minute.
Safety in the Park goes beyond the Park staff and includes visitors as well.  If you are headed to the Park to hike or camp, be sure to take some time to prepare.  Get in shape for a Katahdin hike if that is your plan - you won't regret it!  Bring a first aid kit and know how to use it.  Be sure to sign the hiking register and be prepared for a hike that lasts longer, is wetter, hotter or drier than you planned.  A map is always a good idea.  If you don't have one, you can start with one of our new downloadable maps on the website.  If you are a regular hiker, you will want to upgrade to one of the commercial maps available.  Most of the mapmakers work closely with us in preparing their maps and the maps are accurate and include a lot of helpful information.
The next time the whole Park staff gets together will be in late October after the Park closes to camping.   It will be here before you know it.  Summer is here! I hope you're enjoying it!

Jensen

The Baxter State Park Advisory is a great group. 

The real sign of the start of the Baxter Park season is when the trails open.  When hikers start coming to the Park and Katahdin trails open, the summer season is here.  Simply put, our hiking trails are the heart of the Park, but maintaining and managing our hiking trails is anything but simple.

Baxter Park maintains over 215 miles of hiking trails, including trails in some of the most challenging and beautiful terrain in the Northeast. Maintaining these trails requires constant effort and the careful application of limited resources. In recent years Park managers have focused attention to trail maintenance with the goal of improving trail conditions and lowering maintenance costs over the next two decades. During the summer of 2011, we completed an trail inventory on the majority of Park trails with the remaining inventory work scheduled for completion in 2012. The importance of this work to the Park cannot be overestimated and we will be applying this large dataset now at our disposal to help us in planning cost-effective improvements in the Park’s great trail system in the years to come. Park Resource Manager Rick Morrill has developed a very good summary presentation of the inventory work.  If you have a few minutes, check out this slide presentation, it will give you a deeper understanding of what goes into the trail beneath your feet the next time you hike in Baxter.

The snow is melting quickly on the eastside Katahdin trails.  We will be opening the Cathedral Trail on Sunday, May 27.  The Saddle Trail should be open in a week or two when the remaining snow melts in the Great Basin.  Black flies are enjoying a good start on the year and you should be prepared to cope with these well known parts of the ecology of Maine if you plan to hike in the Park in the next month or more.

Eighty degrees and sunshine really makes a difference!

Every year at this time, we hear from hikers who want to start their season with a hike of Katahdin. 

The Roaring Brook Road is now open to Roaring Brook Campground.

More Park roads opened today as spring continues to settle onto the Park

Here we go!  We have now started to open Park roads for day use vehicle access.  The Park Tote Road is now open to the foot of Abol Hill and we expect much more of the Park road system to open early next week. 

While the roads are generally in good shape in the southern section of the Park below Nesowadnehunk Field and in the northern end of the Park to Trout Brook Crossing, there is a lot of debris and some scattered blowndown trees on the road.  We will be working to clear and clean the road system early next week so that we can open the Park to anglers and hikers.

Winter still rules on Katahdin and all Katahdin Trails will remain closed for the foreseeable future.  We are currently assessing conditions on the Traveler Loop and we expect that this trail may open soon. 

The Park will open to camping on May 15 and most of the campground ranger and gatehouse staff will be returning to the Park on May 7.

Katahdin is still wearing a winter hat

Winter continues to lurk in the shady corners of the Park. 

We have now launched our revised website.   I really hope you like the new look!

We are preparing to launch a new website

After the record setting warmth of March, the Park weather has now turned back to temperatures more typical for this time of year.

The weather forecast for this week is more what we would expect for this time of year, but it will be hard to bring winter back.  Much of the Park's Tote Road is now without snow and conditions are more reminiscent of late April than late March.  Ranger reports from 3/24 indicate that most of the snow has left from Abol Campground and the Tableland.  We have closed all Katahdin trails due to soft conditions. Lakes in the Millinocket area are showing signs of losing their ice sheet, although colder nighttime temperatures this week will slow the ice-out progress.  We are gearing up for a possible early opening of the Park Tote Road and low elevation trails in the Park.  As always, how things turn out will depend upon the weather in the coming weeks.  The photos below were taken by Chief Ranger on 3/23.

Winter just got up and left! 

I have to admit the unusual warm weather feels really nice, but troubling at the same time

Although recent warm weather has lowered snow levels, it was still winter in the Park on Wednesday, March 14.  The Park's administrative team traveled into the Katahdin Lake parcel to conduct a winter reconn of the 150 acre parcel on the southeast corner of Katahdin Lake recently gifted to the Park by the Huber family and corporation.  It snowed most of the day, but temperatures were very reasonable and traveling was good on a relatively firm crust.  We had a good look at sites of interest on the property including the shorefront on Katahdin Lake, Rocky Pond and an existing segment of forest management road that remains on the property.


BSP Admin Team at Rocky Pond:  Business Manager Christine Theriault, Chief Ranger Ben Woodard, Park Naturalist Jean Hoekwater, Resource Manager Rick Morrill

On our way into, and out of Katahdin Lake, we ran into Holly Hamilton's crew hard at work to complete the transport of materials and supplies into Katahdin Lake Wilderness Camps for use next season.  The weather forecast suggests that this activity may get much more difficult in the coming days as we are now entering a stretch of sunny and very warm weather, including days in the 60's early next week.  A significant length of warm weather at this time will likely end snowmobile access to Chimney Pond for the Park Rangers and may re-route access for foot travel as well.  Much of Maine now seems 3 weeks ahead of schedule and although still snow-covered, the Park may be in the same position.  We may be hiking early this year.

It seems that our very mild winter may now be preparing for an early departure.

I spent the day once again in the north end of the Park, traveling to Russell Pond from Matagamon.  Conditions in the Park today were perfect - great snow and enough of it.  BSP Ranger Mike Martin and Backcountry Ranger Greg Hamer were finishing firewood prep for Russell Pond and now have only one or trips worth of bog bridging to haul to complete all hauling work into Russell Pond.  If time and conditions permit, Rangers will work on hauling materials into the new site at Middle Fowler to replace Middle Fowler South backcountry campsite, which is scheduled to be discontinued in 2012 in favor of a more environmentally stable and enjoyable site on the west shore of Middle Fowler Pond.
At Chimney Pond, conditions are also very good for winter traveling.  Rangers at Chimney will be working over the next week on the remaining firewood to be hauled up to Chimney from Roaring Brook to complete the hauling work for 2012.
Warmer weather is forecast for the next several days and perhaps next week.  While this may make for sticky skiing, travel at altitude on nice days will be very enjoyable.  Although there is a reasonable depth of snow in the Park, the snow cover seems relatively airy and without much water content compared to past years.  Warm weather could change conditions rapidly and a week of warm weather should raise concerns for travel on any ice in the backcountry. 
Safe travels.

Last Friday's storm brought upwards of a foot of new snow to the Park.  That's great!  Chimney Pond now has over 60" on the ground - still short of the 80" we had last year, but plenty of snow to get around on.  Visitors will have to break out trails that were well worn before last Friday's storm, and we advise all travelers in the high country of the Park should carefully evaluate avalanche danger in planning their routes and approaches.
Speaking of avalanche danger, many thanks to Jon Tierney of Acadia Mountain Guides for providing excellent training to Park Rangers this past weekend.
Some work in hauling supplies and materials remains to be completed at Chimney and Russell Pond and Holly Hamilton of Katahdin Lake Wilderness Camps tells me that her crews will be very busy hauling supplies for the next several weeks - so please be alert on Park trails as we work to complete this important effort before warmer temperatures soften the trail and herald the approach of spring.
While most of us concentrate on outside winter activities in the Park, much of the most important Park work happens behind the scenes during the winter months.  New Park Ranger vehicles often require substantial refitting for Park use, including the installation of bed racks, two-way radios and law enforcement equipment.  In the complex vehicles on the market today, this can be challenging work.  The Park is fortunate to have a skilled mechanic who makes it all look easy.  Park mechanic Frank George spends his winter months outfitting the new Ranger vehicles and keeping our snowmobile fleet up and running. Frank is one of the many Park employees who make it all happen and if you are lucky, you may even see Frank on a snowmobile in the Park!

Park Mechanic Frank George at work

On Tuesday, February 21, I had the opportunity to travel to Chimney Pond.

Along with the Chief Ranger, Naturalist and Resource Manager, I spent Valentine's Day on a patrol into Russell Pond.

Ben Woodard, Rick Morrill and Jean Hoekwater at Foss & Knowlton Pond

It's now at the point that I can't remember the date of the last significant snowfall - probably in late January.

It seems that winter is finally settling in. 

Chimney Pond received 12" of snow on Wednesday with a trace of rain at the end. 
Rangers have broken out the winter trail through Pogy Gap to Russell Pond and are continuing to work on setting this trail prior to beginning hauling supplies to Russell.


A storm last Friday brought 7-8" of new snow and a trace of ice to Chimney Pond and the higher elevations of the Park.

The temperature at Chimney Pond last night was a balmy 15 degrees and Friday brought 7-8" of new snow and a trace of ice to Chimney Pond and the higher elevations of the Park.

Sadly, Baxter Park has lost a friend. Avid hiker and outdoor writer Brad Viles is gone.  Anyone who knew Brad will remember his always friendly approach with an ear always ready for a story – especially about hiking or camping or any outdoor activity.  Brad’s many stories in the Bangor Daily News are a testament to his interest and experience in hiking, camping and the people who liked the outdoors. Unlike most others, Brad always called to check the factsbefore sending in his article - his objective was always to get it right and to help others enjoy the outdoors.

Sadly, Baxter Park has lost a friend.  Avid hiker and outdoor writer Brad Viles is gone.  Anyone who knew Brad will remember his always friendly approach with an ear always ready for a story – especially about hiking or camping or any outdoor activity.  Brad’s many stories in the Bangor Daily News are a testament to his interest and experience in hiking, camping and the people who liked the outdoors. Unlike most others, Brad always called to check the factsbefore sending in his article - his objective was always to get it right and to help others enjoy the outdoors.

 In recent years, Brad contributed to the annual Youth Wilderness Leadership Program in Baxter Park organized by the Friends of Baxter State Park.  Brad’s work with these motivated kids in how to journal their experience often surfaced as a highlight in the trip evaluations provided by the participants.  The observations and heartfelt joy found in Brad’s book  Dreaming the Appalachian Trail, A Backpacking Novel,  declares Brad’s love for the natural world, especially as viewed from the campfire, a lean-to, or on the high ridge of a mountain trail.

Happy Trails, Brad.

Chimney Pond has been below zero F. for several nights recently.  Basin Pond is holding 12" of ice.  The Roaring Brook Road and the Chimney Pond Trail are both good for skiing at this time, but the current weather forecast includes rain for Monday night.  Rain in the winter is just plain wrong.  The Saddle Trail has been broken out to the Tableland and waist deep or deeper snow lays at the approach to the Saddle, and Dudley Trails.  Cross country skiing in the Togue Pond area is good.  Skiiers should expect to meet snowmobile traffic on the Park Tote Road.  The Logan Pond road was groomed for snowmobile traffic last night for the first time this year.
Trail conditions into South Branch Pond from Matagamon are fair with a soft snow cover over an icy base.  The trail from South Branch to Russell has about 6 to 10" of snow and is bony in spots.

Baxter Park held a very successful Opening Day of Reservations on Tuesday, January 12.  Deirdre Fleming covered the event for the Portland Press Herald.  You can read Deirdre's great story here:  http://www.pressherald.com/life/outdoors/if-youre-on-the-baxter-line-you-join-a-special-group_2012-01-22.html 

Chimney Pond has been below zero F. for several nights recently.  Basin Pond is holding 12" of ice.  The Roaring Brook Road and the Chimney Pond Trail are both good for skiing at this time, but the current weather forecast includes rain for Monday night.  Rain in the winter is just plain wrong.  The Saddle Trail has been broken out to the Tableland and waist deep or deeper snow lays at the approach to the Saddle, and Dudley Trails.  Cross country skiing in the Togue Pond area is good.  Skiiers should expect to meet snowmobile traffic on the Park Tote Road.  The Logan Pond road was groomed for snowmobile traffic last night for the first time this year.
Trail conditions into South Branch Pond from Matagamon are fair with a soft snow cover over an icy base.  The trail from South Branch to Russell has about 6 to 10" of snow and is bony in spots.

Baxter Park held a very successful Opening Day of Reservations on Tuesday, January 12.  Deirdre Fleming covered the event for the Portland Press Herald.  You can read Deirdre's great story here:  http://www.pressherald.com/life/outdoors/if-youre-on-the-baxter-line-you-join-a-special-group_2012-01-22.html  

The snow is now up to 41" on the measurement stick at Chimney Pond.

Chimney Pond received about 2" of snow wet snow and a trace of rain Tuesday night on top of the   29" base layer. 

About 29" of firm snow lay on the ground at Chimney Pond.  The low temperature Sunday night was minus 11 degrees F.  Ice routes are building and many are reasonably good.   the Saddle Trail has been broken out to Baxter Peak.  The Park Tote Road is fair for skiing and tow sleds.  Woodland trails will be mostly good, but may still have bare or icy spots.  Snow depths are currently not sufficient for ski travel or sleds on the Chimney Pond Trail but the forecast suggests more snow Tuesday night and Wednesday.  For more details on current trail conditions and access status, campers are advised to call our hiker information line at 207-723- 4636 or Park Headquarters at 207-723-5140.
Opening Day for 2012 camping reservations is set for Tuesday, January 17.  We expect to open the doors to Headquarters between 6:30 and 7:00am.  We are looking forward to seeing long-time campers and new visitors alike as we start the reservation process for the 2012 summer camping season.

About 6" of additional snow has fallen at Chimney Pond since Thursday morning.  Strong winds are now drifting the snow.  The Park Tote Road is fair for skiing and tow sleds and snowmobile traffic is expected to begin this weekend.  Woodland trails will be mostly good, but may still have bare or icy spots.  Snow depths are currently not sufficient for ski travel or sleds on the Chimney Pond Trail.  There is 30" of snow on the ground at Chimney Pond (2914' elevation)  For more details on current trail conditions and access status, campers are advised to call our hiker information line at 207-723- 4636 or Park Headquarters at 207-723-5140.

Opening Day for 2012 camping reservations is set for Tuesday, January 17.  We expect to open the doors to Headquarters between 6:30 and 7:00am as Monday night promises to be a cold one.  We are looking forward to seeing long-time campers and new visitors alike as we start the reservation process.



2010 Opening Day crowd



Thursday's snowfall added about 4" of snow to the Park landscape.  The Park Tote Road is fair for skiing and tow sleds.  Woodland trails will be mostly good, but may still have bare or icy spots.  Snow depths are currently not sufficient for ski travel or sleds on the Chimney Pond Trail.  There is 25" of snow on the ground at Chimney Pond (2914' elevation)  For more details on current trail conditions and access status, campers are advised to call our hiker information line at 207-723- 4636 or Park Headquarters at 207-723-5140.

Thursday, January 12 was a great day for Baxter State Park.  The Baxter State Park Authority accepted a generous and foresighted gift of 142 acres of land on the shore of Katahdin Lake from Huber Resources Corporation.  This gift is a wonderful addition to the Park and in perfect keeping with Percival Baxter’s vision.  Remaining “Forever Wild”, this portion of the historic Keep Lot will provide recreation opportunities to generations of Mainers.

Snow continues to be sparse in the Park and include a mix of ice, hard crust snow and bare ground.We are hoping for some snow accumulation in the coming storm.  Forecasts are for only a few inches, but every inch will help at this point. Chimney Pond has varying depths of snow, mostly less than 12 inches. Larger streams may be still be open. Most Ponds have ice but caution is advised. The Park is closed to automobile traffic due to hazardous road conditions with patchy snow and ice on Park roads. Foot access to most sections of the Park will be hiking with some skiing available on higher terrain, but conditions are very changeable due to low snow levels. For the most current trail conditions and access status, campers are advised to call our hiker information line at 207-723- 4636 or Park Headquarters at 207-723-5140

Snow continues to be sparse in the Park and include a mix of ice, hard crust snow and bare ground.Chimney Pond has varying depths of snow, mostly less than 12 inches. Larger streams may be still be open. Most Ponds have ice but caution is advised. The Park is closed to automobile traffic due to hazardous road conditions with patchy snow and ice on Park roads. Foot access to most sections of the Park will be hiking with some skiing available on higher terrain, but conditions are very changeable due to low snow levels. For the most current trail conditions and access status, campers are advised to call our hiker information line at 207-723- 4636 or Park Headquarters at 207-723-5140